Trumpet“Lead” cup concepts

 

NEW....lead Zero (LZ)

This new cup is very close to the shape of a Best Brass Powerpiece E cup. Ok, it’s really really close. It is very shallow, but with my new “W” rim contour, it’s as easy to play as the Lead 1 (L1) cup. The wide rim keeps your Lip from intruding into the cup. This cup can can be made with any rim contour of course, but I really think it works great with my new “W” wide rim.


Lead cup #1


Is Basically a copy of the Yamaha Shew “Lead”, but comes in different sizes. The Diameter to depth relationship is proportional, meaning that as the diameter gets bigger, the cup also gets deeper. Not much. Proportional. That way the cup SHAPE stays more constant over the different diameters. The sound characteristics many times are controlled by the SHAPE of the cup.

The Yamaha Shew lead is .635 in diameter. Pretty small, but the Yamaha rim has a pretty rounded bite which could make it feel bigger than if it had for example a GR standard rim. ("GR" is a registered trademark of GR Technologies, LLC) I make this cup in.635, .640, .645, .650, .655, and .660.


I really think that this cup in a larger size is a great choice for many players that just cant play on such a small diameter. As it gets wider, it gets deeper so bottoming out is less likely. Make no mistake though, it’s still a very shallow piece with not a lot of undercut. It has a pretty high “alpha angle” even in the wider diameters (not as high as my #2 cup). The cup has a bit of a bowl shape though for such a shallow cup. As the diameters get bigger the alpha angles get lower by a little bit. By the time you get to .655 (3c size) it has a healthy amount of room at the top of the cup. At .655 it makes a good lead version of a 3C.

Of course the rim contour is an option, and various rims make the mouthpiece feel bigger or smaller than the measured size.

This is a real “Lead” mouthpiece. It would be hard to play “everything” on this cup.



Lead Cup #2


This is basically a copy of the Marcinkewicz Shew 1.5 which is a .625 diameter. Pretty small! The cup is significantly deeper and has a different shape than the yamaha. The alpha angle is a little higher (!) and the bottom of the cup is a little more V shaped than the yamaha Shew. This cup also has a proportional relationship between diameter and depth. The high alpha angle does not change as much when it gets wider as the #1 cup does.  I make this one in .625, .630,.635,.640, .645, and .650. Much bigger than that gets weird.

The high alpha angle takes a lot of getting used to. Lots of people cant play it.

    I could make this cup shape with graduated degrees of “undercut” (lowering the “alpha angle” in GR terms) which really helps more people play it. It the old days I used to alter schilke 13a4a’s in this way, cutting away more and more material until the player could play on it. A little bit goes a long way! It’s kind of hard to know how much you need cut out unless you go bit by bit.

Hard to do unless you are here at the shop. Eventually I will have a set of standard models with the different undercuts, but not quite yet. I can do it as a special though.




Lead Cup #3


This is actually the bottom part of my 1B cutter. It’s the same cutter that cuts a 3C cup shape, and as you simply don’t cut as deep, the diameter gets smaller and of course the cup is shallower. This lead cup as a lower alpha angle, and some pretty good room for your lip to engage into the cup without bottoming out. The throat entrance is pretty open.

Unfortunately, this one can’t be in a 3C diameter (.655) but at .645 it’s a pretty nice lead piece.  Same at .640 or smaller.